What to Look for when Buying Anti-Aging Serums

What to Look for when Buying Anti-Aging Serums

*Content reviewed by HotPause Health Medical Advisor & Board-Certified Dermatologist Corinne Erickson, MD, FAAD, MSCP 

If your once-reliable skincare routine suddenly feels like it has stopped working, hormonal changes may be the reason. During perimenopause and menopause, declining estrogen can lead to drier, thinner, more sensitive skin, along with faster collagen loss, uneven texture, and increased redness. The right anti-aging serum can help—but with endless ingredients and big promises on every label, it can be difficult to know what is actually worth buying. We asked HotPause Health Medical Advisor and board-certified dermatologist Corinne Erickson, MD, FAAD, MSCP, to break down the ingredients midlife skin needs most, when to use them, and which products she recommends.

Why Should You Use Anti-Aging Serums?

Think protect, replace, repair: antioxidants like THD ascorbate to defend against oxidative damage, dual or multi–molecular weight hyaluronic acid to replace the hydration estrogen-declining skin loses, and retinal or retinol to restore collagen and cell turnover. Round it out with gentle AHAs for exfoliation and barrier-supporting ingredients like centella, squalane, and jojoba seed oil (oil, not beads).  This is especially critical in perimenopause when the skin barrier becomes measurably more fragile.

When Should You Apply Anti-Aging Serums?

Antioxidants like THD belong in the morning under sunscreen, where they neutralize the UV and pollution-driven free radicals your skin sees all day. Retinoids and AHAs go at night, when skin shifts into repair mode and there's no UV to inactivate them. Hydrating hyaluronic acid serums can be layered AM or PM, and in perimenopausal skin, I usually recommend both.

What Age Should You Start Using Anti-Aging Serums?

A daily antioxidant and retinoid are important additions to a daily regimen starting in your twenties when collagen has already started to decline. By perimenopause — typically the early-to-mid forties — the strategy needs to escalate, because estrogen loss accelerates collagen breakdown by roughly 30% in the first five years of menopause. This is the window where a thoughtful regimen stops being optional.

Top Skincare Serums Recommendations For Women In Midlife

Hydrinity Retaxome is my go-to for a powerful yet gentle retinoid, specifically retinal, that is encapsulated along with centella asiatica.  This unique formula does what retinoids are known for – restoring collagen, promoting skin cell turnover, and reducing pigment – as well as improving skin hydration and redness.  This is a win for patients who have had issues tolerating retinoids in the past, and especially for perimenopausal skin that is typically more sensitive and reactive to retinoids.

Hydrinity Hydri-C is an antioxidant serum that delivers THD ascorbate, the lipid-soluble, highly stable form of vitamin C that penetrates better than L-ascorbic acid and protects against the oxidative stress that compounds hormonal aging.  This particular formulation also hydrates the skin and reduces inflammation.  

Dr. Jart Cicapair Redness Color Correcting Treatment - This Korean skin care product contains centella asiatica extracts that cool the skin and reduce redness.  Since barrier disruption and redness are common issues in perimenopause, I recommend this product to relieve inflammation in hormonal shifting skin.

Learn more about midlife skin changes here